Emeline Charton1 , François Bourdon1 , Laurent Peno-Mazzarino2, Elian Lati2, Stéphane Meunier PhD1*
1 Teoxane SA, Les Charmilles, Rue de Lyon 105, CH-1203 GENEVE ; 2 Laboratoire BIO-EC, 1 chemin de Saulxier F-91160 LONGJUMEAU
OBJECTIVE
The objective of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of a dermo-restructuring complex [1] – included in the Teosyal® Redensity range of products – on the dermis.
INTRODUCTION
Solutions for skin revitalization, especially those used for mesotherapy, usually contain multiple compounds which the real effect on the dermis is hardly ever demonstrated.
The dermo-restructuring complex (DRC) is made of only 14 compounds, all from pharmaceutical grade, naturally present in the skin and non-allergenic. All of them were selected for their known biological properties and their synergic action on the global restructuration of the dermis [2-11]. The results shown below demonstrate the positive effects of the DRC on the dermis.
TESTS AND RESULTS
The dermo-restructuring complex enriched with hyaluronic acid at 15mg/g is injected in skin explants maintained in survival. After 9 days, which corresponds to the average response time of the dermis, the skin explants are cut into slices and colored by using several techniques depending on the action to be highlighted (Masson’s Trichrome, Alcian blue, immunolabeling).
■MDA TITRATION AFTER EXPOSITION TO THE UV RAYS
Skin explants were exposed to UV rays for inducing an oxidative stress in the dermis, which level is quantified by titrating MDA (malondialdehyde).
The DRC allows to decrease by 28% the radical photo-induced stress as compared to the untreated control in the same conditions.
Ú This result demonstrates the antioxidant protection provided by the dermo-restructuring complex.
DISCUSSION
The spectacular observations on the restructuration of the dermis are the result of the actions of the DRC, whose constituents have synergetic effects on the dermis:
■3 natural antioxidants of the dermis for a synergetic action with the cellular mecha- nisms of defense :
Glutathione, the main antioxidant of the cell, a powerful cellular protector. [2]
Alpha-lipoic acid: universal endogenous antioxidant that protects the cell and the cell’s mem- branes; it recycles natural antioxidants and increases their duration. [3]
N-acetyl-L-cysteine : antioxidant amino-acid, it is a natural source of cysteine for the production of glutathione by the cell. [4]
■8 Amino-acids constitutive of the dermis:
Arginine, a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF); takes part in the hydration regulation of the superficial layers of the skin. [5]
Glycine, one amino-acid of the glutathione tripeptide; it represents 1/3 of the triple-helix struc- ture of collagen. [6]
Leucine, isoleucine and valine define the Branched-Chain Amino Acids group (BCAA) with known wound healing and tissues restructuring properties. [7]
Lysine, threonine and proline, all essential to the biosynthesis and to the stability of the triple- helix structure of collagen. [8,9]
■Vitamin B6, a non-allergenic vitamin, is a powerful antioxidant and a co-factor of more than 140 biochemical reactions in the cell. It is essential to the cellular metabolism of all living organisms. [10]
■Zinc and copper: minerals, essential constituents of natural antioxidant enzymes, they act in synergy with the other defense mechanisms of the cell. [11]
CONCLUSION
The Dermo-Restructuring Complex induces :
■The restructuration of the dermis and a cellular regeneration: + 98% of collagen IV and + 26% of fibrilline-1.
■ A strong improvement of the cutaneous hydration: 15 times more acidic GAGs in the epidermis.
■An antioxidant protection: - 28% of the photo-induced radical stress
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*Corresponding author : s.meunier@teoxane.com
REFERENCES
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